Recipes

A classic salmis is a rather complicated affair: game, usually partridge, woodcock, pheasant or wild duck, is two-thirds roasted and then cooking is finished in a saucepan with truffles. It is finally coated with a demi-glace sauce - a rich brown sauce that is simmered and skimmed for hours - made with the carcass.

This recipe is a version simplified to bring it within the realms of possibility for every competent cook. As partridges are nowadays often sold without their livers, chicken livers are used instead.

Serves 2

    2 young partridge, plus livers or 85g chicken livers, trimmed and chopped
    45g unsalted butter
    3 tbsp olive oil
    2 carrots, finely chopped
    2 onions, finely chopped
    2 shallots, finely chopped
    Sprig thyme
    Bay leaf
    15g flour
    300ml game or chicken stock
    300ml dry white wine
    2 tbsp brandy
    Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

Preheat the oven to 200C/400F.

Using a damp cloth, wipe the partridges all over. Then pat them dry and season. Melt one-third of the butter and, using a pastry brush, paint the birds all over with it. Put them in a roasting dish and roast in the oven, basting occasionally, for 20-25 minutes or until tender.

Meanwhile, melt the remainin butter with the oil in a saute pan over a medium to low heat. Add the carrots, onions, shallots, thyme and bay leaf and saute for about 5 minutes. Cover and sweat for a further 10 minutes. Stir in the flour and, stirring constantly, cook for a couple of minutes. Then pour in the stock, turn up the heat, bring to the boil and simmer for about 5 minutes. 

Remove the partridges from the oven and using a slotted spoon, transfer them to a suitable carving board. Carve and keep warm. Crush the carcasses by pressing on them firmly with a rolling pin or the flat of a large knife. Strain any juices back into the roasting pan.

Put the roasting pan over a medium heat and stir and scrape the bottom with a wooden spoon. Then pour in the wine, turn up the heat and boil to reduce it by about two-thirds.  Turn the heat down to medium, add the livers and cook for a couple of minutes. Then add the vegetables in their stock along with the crushed carcasses and, stirring continuously, simmer the sauce until it reaches boiling point.

Remove the pan from the heat, pick out the carcasses and bay leaf and pass the sauce through a mouli or sieve, pressing down firmly to make sure the livers are pushed through. Pour the sauce back into the pan, turn the heat down to low, add the brandy and simmer for a couple of minutes

Return the meat to the pan, season and simmer for a couple of minutes to reheat and serve.