A favourite from Henrietta Green. Pheasant and celery are a classic combination; the chicken livers add richness.
Serves 4-6
2 pheasants, trussed
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
75g (3oz) unsalted butter
100g (4oz) lean beef, finely minced
100g (4oz) calf's or chicken livers, trimmed and chopped
1 shallot, peeled and chopped
1 celery stick, chopped
Pinch of ground cloves
300ml (½ pint) white wine
Method
Rub the pheasants both inside and outside with salt and pepper. Melt the butter in a suitable heavy-based casserole over a moderate heat and brown the pheasants all over, then remove from the pan. Add the beef, liver, shallot, celery and cloves and, stirring constantly, cook for a couple of minutes. Then lay the pheasants on top of this mixture, spooning a little over the top of the birds, pour over the white wine and 150ml (¼ pint) water, turn up the heat and bring to the boil. Turn the heat down to a gentle simmer, cover and cook for about one hour or until the pheasants are tender. Once they are cooked, lift them out of the pan and keep warm.
Using either a food processor or a hand blender, whizz the contents of the casserole until smooth. Return to the pan, reheat and, if the sauce should look a little thin, boil it rapidly for a couple of minutes to reduce. Adjust the seasoning and serve separately in a bowl. Carve the birds, ladle over the sauce and serve.

I wouldn't be a good market cook if I didn't tell you about a smashing pheasant soup I make with the carcasses. Simply strip and boil them with the usual vegetables as flavourings, onion, carrot, leek, parsley, etc to make a stock. Strain, then add a few sliced potatoes and cook until soft. Just before serving stir in any chopped pheasant meat stripped from the carcasses, a handful of chopped parsley, a dash of Madeira and, if there is any, leftovers from the actual casserole.
For more on British game in season, visit Our Little Green Book on Wild Game Birds