This Month

Over the last 40 years or so there's been a jump in the growth of farm shops that warms the cockles of a Food Lover’s heart. There are now nearly 2000 across the country – admittedly of varying size and proximity to an actual farm – but still upholding principles that we hold dear: less food miles and packaging, local, traceable produce and so on.

It's no doubt been matched by the amount of books now – thankfully – banging the drum for seasonality and impeccable sourcing. You’d be hard-pushed to choose between them, so I’ve picked my favourite of the moment. Christine McFadden’s Farm Shop Cook Book acknowledges not only the broad sweep of fruit and vegetables you’ll find at any farm shop, but also those slightly more quirky ingredients at the good ones. Expect to find out how to deal with goose eggs, pig’s trotters, wild boar and goat.

She picks out varieties you might see, seasonality, shopping and storage notes as well as recipes and further ideas. She’s not jingoistic about it either – there are recipes for paneer, Porchetta and Pepperpot kid as well as a classic roast grouse. It’s a clever idea – lifting the British-only mindset people sometimes have in a farm shop, marrying unusual ingredients you’ll find in a supermarket with the farm shop produce and freeing up the cook.  I did love the sound of the Warm Salad of Broad Bean Pods and naturally I’ll pick out her British-only Savoury Cherry Sauce for her mention of CherryAid. (Why not make your own version and register for CherryBake?)

With an exhaustive list of useful organisations and websites in the back and a seasonal calendar – no cook book is complete these days without one – this is the kind of recipe book that actually makes you want to go out and find the ingredients, rather than picking up any old substitute in the weekly shop.