Seasonal Food This December (Turkey, Goose, Sprouts, Stilton)
The rising price of turkeys has recently hit the headlines, but, as in all things in life, you get what you pay for. If you're looking to buy a turkey, let me help you choose the best.
I know what I expect from my Christmas turkey. Appearance-wise, it must be well-proportioned so it sits well on the plate. I like a plumptious well-rounded breast for plenty of white meat and a blemish-free, unbroken skin. When it comes to flavour, some think of turkey as no more than a background to the stuffings and sauces, but I demand it has a pronounced character all of its own. Breaing in mind that the turkey is a game bird, I look for a definite gaminess, a clear clean-flavoured flesh overlaid with a dusky earthiness that doesn't disintegrate in the mouth and delivers a good length of flavour.
For a stress-free Christmas, buy the FoodLovers Turkey Box - you'll get a free-range KellyBronze turkey with all the trimmings.
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Rich and succulent, goose is fast becoming the alternative bird for the Christmas Meal. Densely-textured, it has the advantage that it's almost impossible to over-cook. Even if you leave it for hours and hours, it will not dry out.
For the best of all geese, you need to make sure that it has been reared slowly - anything from five to seven months, allowed to free-range outdoors and to feed on grass or, better yet, corn stubble for an even creamier flesh. It should also be hung for seven to ten days to tenderise the meat and to develop its flavour.
One problem with a goose is its bone-to-meat ratio. What might appear to be a hefty bird suitable for feeding the entire family can yield little flesh and far too much fat, usually a result of having been forced too fast. A way to avoid this when choosing is to check that the bird is slowly grown and able to waddle around.
One of the great joys of cooking a goose is the jars of goose fat to last you through the year. To clarify it, simply put it in a clean pan, remove any bits of meat or skin and melt it gently. Strain it through a muslin-lined sieve (a damp J-cloth will do) and repeat a couple of times if necessary, then pot it up and keep it in the fridge. Use it for cooking throughout the year to add richness and depth to stews and, of course, one of life's great indulgences, roast potatoes.
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Stilton is inextricably linked to Christmas. Traditionalists insist on it over the holidays and really believe no other cheese will do.
You can buy Stilton from just about every other supermarket, deli or cheese shop at this time of year. Some are good, others insipid, and on no account should you even think about buying it squashed into a jar. You might think it looks good and makes an ideal present, but the cheese is often second-rate. Rumour has it that only poor-quality cheeses are ever used for potting.
When choosing a Stilton, always look for evenly distributed veins, good blueing and a good contrast between the paste and the veins. Although you may be tempted to buy a small truckle, it's not necessarily a good idea. Their flavour is not nearly so highly developed because, as they dry out far more quickly, they mature when far younger.
As to the vexed q1uestion of how to cut into a round of Stilton, scoops are thought a bad idea. Far better to cut it cross-wise with a knife, working your way through and down the cheese. Always keep your Stilton in a cool place, preferably a larder but if you don't have one, a fridge will do. Some people wrap it in a lightly moistened cloth to stop it drying out, others use foil of cling film. But always remember to unwrap and leave it at room temperature a good couple of hours before you want to eat it.
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Love or hate' em, there's no denying most people serve Brussels sprouts with the Christmas turkey. A member of the brassica family, don't ask me why but they seem essential to the Meal.
When buying them, one of the best ways is while still on the stalk. You might feel like you're walking home dangling a misshapen umbrella, but they stay fresher and sweeter for longer and can be stored until needed in a cool dark place. When choosing them loose, look for small, firm sprouts with tightly packed, green leaves. And always avoid any that show signs of yellowing.
Prepare them by cutting a small cross in their base. Actually it's more a nick than a cut and the reason is to make sure the base cooks as quickly as the leaves. Sprouts, contrary to how most people behave, only need a short cooking time. Boil, steam or stir fry them, toss them in butter or olive oil, add bacon, nuts or herbs to bring out their sweetness. Once you get the Brussels sprouts habit, there'll be no stopping you.
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